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*Cost of study plans will be applied toward the price of full plans if ordered within one year. Study plans contain 9 full pages of color drawings, a Bill of Materials and building text. It is almost the full set of plans but lacking dimensions.
After designing and building
the 8ft Nuthatch Pram, I thought that a larger version
of the hull would be a good fit in my series of stitch
and glue boats. The main change in the 10ft and larger
versions of the Nuthatch Pram from the 8ft hull, is the
use of a curved arc on the bottom edge of the two side
panels. On the 8ft hull, the bottom edge to the two side
panels is a straight line. This was used to help in the
lofting and construction process. The straight edge on
the 8ft hull, also kept more hull below the waterline
near the stern in this shorter version. Which in turn
increased it's load carrying capacity, and increased it's
stability. The larger hulls, from 10ft and up, have extra
width and length to offset the need to keep the straight
line on the chine seam. Plus the curve added to this and
the other larger hulls, make the designs look better;
with the smooth flowing (not quite parallel) curves of
the chine and shear lines of the side panels. The curve
in the side panels at the stern, also picks up the aft
ends of the two bottom panels, and reduces the wetted
area to improve rowing when solo in the boat.
As with all my previous
prototype hulls, I have added the sailing option to this
design. I do this to make sure that the daggerboard trunk
and mast partner are located in the correct locations,
and that the hull is a good sailor as designed. If you
do not want that option, you can dispense with those instructions
and drawing details. I have also added an "alternate"
section to the drawing plans for a change in the seating
locations, which may be more useful when used with an
outboard motor to balance the hull. I have not listed
any dimensions, because you may want to modify the locations
of the seat positions.
I have gone to using the "enclosed
pyramid" (with watertight hatches) style of seating
in all my designs for safety reasons. After reading, and
looking at the photos of a story in Duckworks Magazine
dealing with the deep water self rescue of a brand new
"traditional" small boat design (they couldn't);
I will no longer include drawings or instructions for
old style wooden plank seats. Your safety, and that of
your family members is more important to me, than any
negative comments about my hull interiors. This hull as
designed, has around 4+ cubic feet of extra positive flotation
build into the enclosed pyramid seating. That's over 240
pounds of extra support, along with the wood in the hull.
The two handle/steps on the stern are there to help you
or a loved one, get back in the boat again if needed.
Always carry and wear, a life jacket adequately sized
for you and your guests, and all in good condition.
This is the first hull design that
I have put a scale model in a float tank to see where
the hull floats with test weights. Before I have had to
wait for an actual launch to determine the waterline of
an empty hull, and then with real people. After tank testing
the previously built PUD-g, and comparing that with it's
launch photos; the 10ft Nuthatch Pram sets better than
I though it would. I also discovered that I needed to
change my ideas of where the best seat placement for use
with an outboard motor would be, and have made slight
modifications to the design part of my brain. ;) This
will be a fun boat, enjoy.
Plans include
the following PDF files:
- Printable Paper model - FREE Download
- 50 pages of instructions
- 26 pages of detailed drawings
(examples below)
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