Materials

Plywood:

It’s best to use marine grade plywood manufactured to British Standard 1088 or BS1088. Look for the BS1088 stamp on each sheet. WoodenBoat has two articles on marine plywood that are very good sources of information.

• 2 4X8 sheets of 6mm
• 2 4X8 sheets of 4mm
• 3 4X8 sheets of 3mm

Wood:

You’ll need about 40 to 45 linear feet of 5/8 X 3/4 inch basswood, poplar or fir….fir will be the simplest to find. This will be used on decks, bulkheads and for cleats. You’ll also need an additional 40 to 45 linear feet of 5/8 X 3/4 inch cherry, mahogany, or fir. This will be the trim for the boat - the inwales and outwales; so cherry or mahogany will be best. However fir does look very nice varnished. You will also need a 4 foot long piece of 2 X 12 in Cherry, Mahogany, or fir……The cherry or mahogany will probably come in 4/4, 6/4, or 8/4…..This will be the false stem. If the inside stem is 2 layers of 6mm scrap ply glued together then you should be able to use 4/4. The 6/4 or 8/4 will be definite overkill. You can have the lumber yard surface the cherry or the mahogany for you. If you don’t have access to the cherry or mahogany a 2 X 12 in clear pine or fir will work very well…That was used on Flyfisher in the manual.

Epoxy: Note - a custom epoxy kit is available for this boat

Flyfisher will require 1 ½ to 2 gallons of resin and the appropriate amount of hardener. I’ve used System Three Epoxy for over 10 years and I’ve found it to be excellent. I really like the two to one mixing ratio…Which ever epoxy you use…and there are least three major brands…I highly recommend The Epoxy Book (enclosed)….reading it carefully will save you mistakes that will cost time as well as money….in addition you’ll need:

• 5 quarts of cab-o-sil
• 1 quart wood flour
• measuring cups (I like the plastic 1 oz cups)
• approx 100 #6 X 3/4 screws (silicone bronze)
• approx 100 #6 X 5/8 screws (silicone bronze or stainless, square drive or Frearson wood screws)
• a small box of fine finish nails 1 ½ long)

Fiberglass cloth:

• 50 yards of 3 inch wide 6 ounce tape
• 6 yards of 6 ounce 50 inch wide fiber glass cloth (use 4 ounce if you want to keep things very light or 9 ounce for heavy abrasion like oysters)

Miscellaneous:

2 sheets 5/8 or 3/4 inch particle board or MDF for molds (rip sheets into 24 X 96 inch pieces if the base line is to be 24 inches above the strong back or say 16 X 96 if the base line is to be 16 inches above the strong back. 24 inches will be best) Each blank should be cut just slightly wider than the maximum beam at that station. Also, you need masking or plastic tape for the edges of the molds. Be sure to tape the edges of the molds or they will become a permanent but unwanted part of the boat!!!!!

1 sheet of ¾ inch plywood for the strong back ripped into 6 inch wide strips.

Tools

Necessary:

1. saber saw
2. block plane (can be adapted for bevel jig)
3. drill and drill bits
4. small hammer
5. hand saw (Japanese pull saw is best)
6. ¾ inch chisel
7. orbital sander (5 inch is best)
8. tape measure (16 ft minimum)
9. spring clamps (5)
10. bar clamps (5)
11. mat knife or razor blades
12. safety glasses
13. dust mask
14. square
15. string snap line or string

Helpful tools

1. table saw
2. cordless drill
3. 8 inch jack plane (bevel jig)
4. belt sander and frame (for scarfing)
5. circle saw (for scrafing alternative)
6. router (for scarfing alternative)
7. # 6,8,10 counter sinks and bits
8. set of chisels